Surfing isolated breaks makes it much more of an adventure.

Andrew (18) does abs surfing off the PLNU campus

Do you go to school here?

No, I’m in high school. I go to Waldorf school.

Are you dropping out of school right now to surf?

No…I mean, sort of. It’s senior ditch day.

Going to college near a surf spot?

Yes, I go to the University of Miami. I can still surf but it’s across the whole country! The only surfing beach there is really South Beach.

Do you surf every day?

I used to do it, but now it’s like 2-3 times a week.

How many boards do you have?

About 20. I collect used boards. I buy them on OfferUp and Craigslist.

Do you have a favorite surf spot?

It’s difficult. I mean, when I’m surfing it’s usually here (Abs), Subs or Sunset Cliffs. You can walk down this beach to the military base, but then they block you. You cannot go further on earth. I really enjoy walking around here and taking secluded breaks. It makes it much more of an adventure. I try to distance myself from the local crews. They can be aggressive, but they will only become so if you make them aggressive. It’s easier to surf alone.

Do you still surf solo?

No, I’m going with friends. Surfing is a super fun social activity for me, but it’s also great to go alone to clear your mind.

How long have you been surfing?

Since I was 7 years old. My grandfather bought me a board for Christmas because he used to surf when he was little. My dad used to take me to Coronado and push me into the waves. That’s how it all started.

Are you good enough?

I am above average. But, for me, it’s not about being good. It’s about practicing and having fun. I just want to enjoy it and be at peace with the surf. When you’re there it’s so relaxing – you’re so focused on watching the waves to see which one to catch. It’s relaxing, but still very exciting and thrilling.

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