Surfing is Nice, Not Nice – Here’s the Difference
Surfers all have different answers to the question “why do you surf?” Whether it’s escaping the mundane, challenging yourself, or immersing yourself in nature, the common theme running through all of these responses is that no matter what, the pursuit of surfing is over. for himself. The progress that takes place with each completed session only benefits you, the best sessions are often those with the fewest people around, and the happy feelings one experiences coming out of the ocean, it affects, well, that surfer alone. But the reality is that it’s very simple: people surf because surfing is good.
But it seems that surfing (along with most things that make people feel good) has been considered a waste of time since at least the 60s, even during the golden years of surfing. In a scene from Pacific vibes, an iconic film by none other than John Severson, a surfer lying on the beach laments, “Surfing is a wacky thing. It’s the only thing I like to do, but my parents know that and so if I don’t get a good grade on my report card, they won’t let me surf until I talk about it, and if I don’t get a job, they’ll use it against me, I can’t surf. If I wasn’t surfing, I don’t know what they would do, they wouldn’t have anything to blame me for! (Watch the clip here at 15:52)