Nostalgia and tradition are at the heart of surfing, but don’t let that ruin your experience now
Surfers, it seems, are never satisfied. A constant thirst for bigger, better and emptier waves drives us to roam the coastal charts, drive to new breaks and braving harsher conditions to mark. But what happens when surfers dream that the best waves are… in the past?
I knew the the grass is always greener syndrome. It seems like every time you come out of the water, someone stands on the shore, commenting that things were “so much better” an hour ago, or that you “missed” the best window. Trust them, your timing is just stopped.