I broke my nose surfing in Nazaré without experience
I honestly never imagined surfing Nazaré…never in a million years. But hey, when the swell went from 60 feet to 20, and the guy with the most hours logged on a Jet Ski in Nazaré offered to tow me, how could I say no? And I’m glad I didn’t. As any surfer knows, all it takes is a good wave to make your session worthwhile. And despite finishing the session with a broken nose, I had my Nazaré wave.
The story begins during the big swell in Nazaré at the end of February. I flew out to film my friend Toby Cunningham surfing giant waves in his Ho Stevie! combination. He ended up using a different suit because he wanted to wear two life jackets, one under his suit (which is why he needed a bigger suit) and one over his suit. But oh my god, did these guys put on a show! Everyone agreed that the waves on Friday February 25 were at least 60 feet, and some of the guys said they even saw a couple of 80 feet.